Fubar Glue Usage Instructions
At FubarGlue.com we have developed a new build bed coating for use on your 3d printer.
CHALLENGE
One of the greatest challenges the 3d printing community is trying to solve is keeping 3d prints on the printer build bed. This is known as shrinkage or warping. As a 3d printer enthusiast, I’m sure you have had to deal with this already.
HISTORY
After hearing and reading about so many complaints, our customers asked us to help them to get rid of having to use all of the “stuff” they’ve been putting on their printer beds to keep their prints on the bed and stop lifting and warping. We have done just that, creating FUBAR GLUE….
FUBAR GLUE was formulated and developed for our Nylon 12 Filament, but testing by our customers found that it works great on just about any filament available for use. ABS, PLA, PET, NYLON, NYLON 12, PP and lots of others all worked great with our product. They no longer needed to use painter’s tape, Kapton tape, their own glue concoction (Acetone mixed with whatever filament they were using – HIGHLY FLAMMABLE), Aqua Net hair spray (just as FLAMMABLE), Garolite beds and the list goes on. Our non-toxic glue replaces all these materials and works on glass, aluminum & Garolite if you want, and just about any other materials our customers have used.
USING FUBAR GLUE
Print beds come in many sizes, shapes and materials. One of the most common sizes is a bed measuring approximately 8″x8″. To coat this entire size bed you will need approximately 25 drops or less of Fubar Glue. Using a plastic scraper (which we supply free anyway) you need to spread it evenly across the entire bed. Then let the glue dry completely, either by air-drying or using your heated bed at a temperature of 80°C. This dries it fast and completely. (It will be almost 100% clear when completely dry.) That’s it! Then reduce the bed temperature to 70-75°C if using a heated bed. (Note: Depending on the material you are using, for example PLA, many printers don’t even have a heated bed but still need an “adhesive” to stop the prints from moving, lifting or warping. So don’t forget to use some even when not using Nylon 12 filament!) When your print is complete, turn off the heated bed temperature and this will make it much easier to remove.
We have tested/printed on one coating of glue upwards of 25 times and not had to remove and replace it. We would add several drops of warm water to the existing coating on the bed, then lightly wipe the material around the platform bed to recoat the surface. The parts weren’t complex but worked just fine. For more complex pieces 10+ prints on the same coating were not uncommon. The glue dissolves readily in a little warm water. It will loosen the part and you will be able to remove it quite easily from the bed if you need too. Your overall experience may certainly differ due to experience level, machine, filament used, temperature settings, and even room and material conditions. Our experiences may differ completely from yours.
Please contact us at support@fubarglue.com with any questions or comments. Thanks again for your purchase.
If you are looking for a great product, NYLON 12 Filament, please check out our sister site at
RDMFilament.com for more information and specs.